Day One - Cunderdin to Leonora - 740 kilometres
Day one of the Morning Glory trip started with Petrina, Gloria and
myself leaping out of bed at the appointed time ( I know Gloria was out
of bed because she knocked on the wall of our caravan on her way to her
ablutions). The day had started and we had a tight schedule to
get to Leonara on the first day. As the ladies performed a
complicated shuffle of the contents of the Land Cruiser. I inspected the
Limbach in the back of Rob's Ford, discussed engine issues, and
generally prepared myself for the trip. Of course since Bob
Milligan was there we needed a further consultation before all was
ready. For reasons that I can't myself understand I was in the bad
books for talking too much!
We left the caravan Park and headed East with Gloria
in command - but under supervision - she was having her first drive of the
'Cruiser. Gloria had to revisit those days when one had to do
funny things with clutch pedals and gear levers but being on the open
roads this didn't slow her pace very much.
At Southern Cross we paused for a pleasant
lunch in the park adjacent to the new Info center and departed the town
with Petrina driving. A session of unremarkable driving
conditions took us through Coolgardie and on to Kalgoorlie where we
sought out the Woolworths fuel station and topped off with some
discount fuel that we imagined might be the cheapest on the trip.
Indications for this early leg suggested consumption figures of
the order of ten litres per hundred, in line with the experienced
opinion as to what we should achieve. Time also for us to pick up
some drinks and a can of RP 7.
Departing Kalgoorlie I took charge of the driving
and for about fifty kilometres had a pleasant time but an urgent need
for a sleep saw Gloria back at the wheel to bring the Cruiser into
Leonara at about seven o'clock which was a little later than planned by
management. Lee at the Leonora Motel saw us as highly
satisfactory customers as we were the only occupants of the motel and
didn't want breakfast in the morning. This gave her thoughts of a
sleep in and relaxed day on Sunday. We didn't need a motel
breakfast as we'd be leaving way too early for that you understand.
The Leonora Motel was quite comfortable and provided
us with a green aerosol tin of pea beau spray to deal with any mosquito
problems we might suffer. Petrina went on a "mozzie" sortie,
armed with a green spray can, and found a mozzie in the bathroom.
Zap, zap and another zap. The mozzie went down in an
inverted flat spin, to lie feet ceilingwards on the floor. Such
success brought thoughts of more kills so Petrina went to war in the
main room of the motel spraying high and low. Myself, laying
nearly asleep on the bed processed thoughts slowly. Thoughts like
"It's a pity that they had to take freon off the market as a propellant
for aerosol cans because it didn't smell too much", further thoughts
like "I guess that they have replaced it with a petrochemical
agent 'cause you can surely smell the oily smell", and another
thought "in fact that smell is very like RP 7". Thoughts of a
catnap vanished as I sat bolt upright. "Hey Trini, where is the insect
spray you have been using". Yes, I know, you are all way ahead of
me - and Trini produced the can RP 7 "insect spray". So there's a
tip for you, RP 7 kills mozzies very quickly but unfortunately of
course it doesn't do the other occupants in the room a lot of good
either.
And so to bed!
Day Two - Leonora to Tjukayilla - 540 kilometres
.
A little more reshuffling of the Cruiser's contents was required
and as we'd decided to use only packaged water along the way to avoid
any tummy upsets we had to purchase some, and it seemed worthwhile to
again top off the Cruiser's tanks as we were now facing the unknown
when we heading out past Laverton. With Petrina at the
wheel, the unknown came to us fairly gently and we made good time
over good graded gravel roads. The only unsettling factor was the
number of "dead" cars we encountered ( a"dead" car is defined as one
that has no wheels, windows, and is either burnt out or rolled upside
down - and of course a car still qualifies if it is both burnt out and
rolled upside down). I tried my best to cheer all aboard
with comments like "Doesn't it remind you of those movies where the
hero, crossing a treacherous desert, comes upon the skeletons of dead
camels every so often". Deafening silence followed my helpful
thoughts.
I took some comfort initially from the fact that all of the cars were
from an older era and there were no four wheel drives represented but
as you'd expect, in due course we came upon examples of inverted and
burntout modern cars and four wheel drives. So pictures of the
dried out skeletons returned to haunt me. We started out counting
dead cars but as the count grew into the uncountably large region we
moved on to only counting dead four wheel drives.
Laverton proved to be all that I expected of it, though the
expectations started from a low base anyway and we spent only a little
time doing a pass through the outskirts before retuning to our
favourite sport of observing the year, make and model of the dead cars and
four wheel drives we were passing.
Lunch was taken in a roadside parking bay where we shared the
company of a younger couple who's plans matched ours as far as Alice
Springs but then included a trip through the Tanami Desert to
Broome. Following our lunch I took over the driving but found it
all too tiring and handed over to Gloria to complete the day's distance.
Have trouble getting your tongue around the name of
our evenings rest site? It's actually pronounced Cha (as in cha
cha cha), kee (as in keep) and la as in la la la to give Cha-kee-la.
Rumours abound that the Government have provided aboriginal
people with a talented Polish phoneticist to help create a written form
of their language.
Tjukayilla proved to be very comfortable and Andrew
and Sue made us feel thoroughly welcome. We were checked out by
their dogs and officially made a part of the family. The ladies
tried their hand at cuddling an emu chick. Boy that chick had
technique. Just a few seconds cuddled up against anyones chest
and he was asleep, made me feel quite envious.
Day Three - Tjukayilla to Warakurna - 427 Kilometres
I inspected the RFDS road strip adjacent to Tjukayilla
and found a nice big sign securely planted at the threshold warning
motorists that it was 284 kilometres to the next fuel supply - Hmmm!
We started the day with myself driving, after all
the Captain should do an occasional takeoff shouldn't he? To add
interest to the day's travel we stopped counting four wheel drives and
started counting dead buses, though I hasten to say here that to be a
dead bus didn't seem to require that it be rolled onto its roof -
stripped of its wheels yes, burnt out yes, but not rolled over.
Good though corrugated gravel gave us an easy run out to
Warburton where we stopped for lunch. Of course for cultural
reasons no photographs could be taken at Warburton and we had little
contact with even the Roadhouse as the Cruiser was still turning in its
ten litre per hundred performance giving us something like a total of
1400 kilometres range. We inquired about the airstrip and were
told to go down through the township and turn left to the airfield but
the signs suggest that permits were required for access to the township
so we had to give it a miss.
Post lunch saw Petrina and then Gloria handle the
driving for most of the afternoon and the sport for the drive was to
count dead trucks which are fewer in number than caravans. It
seemed to us to be more significant that the road wrecked even trucks.
Caravans, though as killable as their road using cousins, don't
seem to offer the challenge in the wrecking stakes that one could get
from a truck.
Big surprise of the late afternoon for us was that
the Roadhouse at Warakurna closed at 5:00 pm - Central Standard Time!
Oops, we'd arrived too late and found the Roadhouse, our source
of accommodation for the night, closed like a Chubb safe. The sign
said that the Manager lived at the rear and so "cap in hand" I visited
his residence. When he worked his way through my story that
proved we were the long booked, even if late arrived, Baird and
Clintons he happily got me the keys with the comment "See me in the
morning" and so to our Backpackers accommodation we retired.
Modest but clean enough for us to use, the rooms worked out OK.
We were sharing the accommodation units with two Fugro pilots, Dave and
Simon, involved in aerial surveys in the area. So we had
company for tea and sat by the fire talking and viewing aircraft (of
course) films until bed time. Dave worked out that if we flew
from Cunderdin we must know ex-workmate and friend Zoltan.
Warakurna was something of a museum of dead
vehicles comprising mostly four wheel drives and probably because of
the large numbers of Toyota products out here they were well
represented in the collection. . Pondering over the collection I
decided that they had been towed into a random pattern in the area, or
perhaps struggled in under their own power, and then been executed.
Execution taking the form of removing their wheels where they
sat. Later visits to the vehicles showed an interesting side of
operations because there had been no attempt made to arrange any for
resurrection of the fallen as parts were stripped randomly from
vehicles so that three LandCruiser utes of similar make and model had
different areas of them dismantled seemingly for spares. Any one
vehicle could have been canabilised to get the desired parts but it
seemed more likely that someone walked to the one nearest to them at
that moment and pulled that one apart. One assumes that they were
all abandonded vehicles and as such had no real cost to the operations
at Warakurna.
Day Four - Warakurna to Yulara - 350 kilometres
This was to be the big test. The road beyond
Docker River came with some worrying warnings. But first we
visited the Giles weather observatory and spent a pleasant hour with
Dave, Garry, Chris and Mike looking at the history of the place, their
work and equipment both past and present. This station and some
thirty other stations launche met balloons at 00:00 zulu and 12:00
zulu. We could delay the
challenge no longer so full of fuel we started for Yulara.
Petrina drove and handled the Western Australian part of the road
with aplomb. But it was the final 180ks beyond Docker River
that had the reputation. Forty k's on we gratefully turned
into
the Lasseter Cave Rest stop.
But a nice touch of history with a visit to
Lassetter's Cave. Harold Lewis Bell Lassetter spent 31 days at
the cave in 1931 after his camels bolted with his water and supplies
and died some 25 days later in an attempt to walk out of the area armed
with only a pitiful supply of water. We were all struck at some
time on the trip so far by the lush vegetation out here in the desert.
It's so misleading and you could imagine that it would be easy to
sustain life but as Lassetter proved, even with experience, for the white man such is not
the case. We lunched at Lassetter's Cave and found that wasps
like either blue mugs, or camomile and peppermint tea, or blue
mugs containing camomile and peppermint tea. But whatever, Trini had to
forgo her preferred drink and yielded to the large wasps that flew in
from all about the area. The more sensible Gloria and
myself drank our tea from green or white cups without concern.
Also at Lassetter's Cave we met a couple in a large Winnebago
towing a Ford Kia. We'd passed them some time before and they we
travelling slowly, planning to cover the day's trip we set ourselves in
about five days. But to do them credit, they had the time and had
apparently covered almost every recognised rough road in Australia in
this patient and persistent manner.
On to the real challenge and Trini wasn't going to
hand over the wheel to me - I think that was mainly because I was
asleep in the back but whatever. Gloria professed a lack of
interest in driving the Road, pointing out that with her superior
skills at spotting the numerous camels we'd had to slow for, she would
be better employed as an observer. And the Road lived up to its
reputation. The corrugations seemed to be too long to speed over
unless one was prepared to use speeds above that which our age,
reflexes and knowledge of the road told us was safe. Though
several vehicles passed us at speeds in the vicinity of 120 kph, us
doing a modest 70 to 80kph - hire four wheel drives or employer's
vehicles we didn't know but tended to suspect either. The road
surface was badly maintained and I'd hope that it was the worst we'll
have to negotiate on this trip. Areas of ball bearing gravel
would send the Cruiser down the road at funny angles proving that the
steering wheel had no involvement in directional control. Deep
sandy holes, often well concealed lay in the middle of the road and
these would try to tear the wheel from the driver's grip as it swung
the vehicle off track. And hard, hard holes were sprinkled about
so that the Cruiser took a hammering no matter what Trini tried.
Forty kilometres into the Docker River Road we
paused to provide a military funeral for our drivers sideview mirror.
A good companion on the campaign since Perth it was amongst the
fallen in the Battle of Docker River Road. At the eighty
kilometer mark we idled to a stop to give Trini time to relax her
facial muscles and finger muscles as both were having a tough time out
here as she sought to use will power alone to overcome the Cruisers
worst wayward tendencies. Many of the bumps and swerves we'd
experienced were so bad they were even waking me in the back seat. As
we stopped we were met with the sort of noise you listen for when you
are out in such an area, the idling Toyota was giving out sounds like
twelve blacksmiths hitting anvils with their heavy hammers. But
Gloria came to the rescue when she spotted that the front pipe to the
muffler had pulled away and the idling motor was rocking just enough to
be using the inlet pipe as a gong for a large bell provided by the
muffler shell. So Onwards! To infinity and beyond!
At last, with thirty kilometres to go, Trini
gave up the unequal struggle, woke me in the back seat and handed over
and I fought the last skirmish of the Battle bringing the Cruiser out on the
bitumen at the Olgas where it ran down the road as sweet as any Rolls
Royce would do.
We took "lunch" at a nice shady table that gave us
an excellent view of sunset at the Olgas - Kata Tjutu if you're of the
PC persuasion - having gently dispossessing British couple Nick
and Natasha of their prime piece of real estate.
On to our booked chalet in the Ayres Rock Campground
- clearly no PC influence in the naming at the Campground - showers for
all and a pleasant evening over a well deserved bottle of champagne
before our even more deserved rest.
We were fortunate to be able to get a talented media
person ("ten guesses as to who that might be" - Petrina) to work with Trini for her problem and he has been able to
reduce the number of times that Trini starts swearing when anyone
mentions the Docker River Road. He says that with time we should
hope for a complete recovery. We should of course hope shouldn't we?